But because of the challenges in growing and shipping the fruit, they’re just about impossible to find in supermarkets. During the short window between August and early October when pawpaws are in season, foragers hunt down pawpaw patches and a few farmers’ markets put them up for sale. Pawpaw trees thrive along creeks and rivers, and there’s a good chance you’ve passed one without even knowing it.īut even though the prized fruit grows quite literally in America’s backyard, it’s not easy to try a pawpaw for yourself. But unlike those fruits, pawpaws are not native to the tropics instead, the fruit grows across the Eastern United States and up into Canada. The pawpaw is having a moment, perhaps because it is a mass of contradictions: Its custardy flesh, ranging in color from butter yellow to sunset orange, tastes like a mix of banana, mango, and pineapple (or so I’d heard). At pawpaw festivals across the country, chefs whip up dishes such as pawpaw chicken wraps and pawpaw curry puffs. Food writers marvel at how “magical” it is. I yearned to taste the enigmatic fruit that so many people seem to be talking about lately. The most upscale grocery stores-the kind that sell black garlic and cotton-candy grapes-also had none to offer. The day before, I had struck out in Manhattan’s expansive Union Square Greenmarket, where a seller told me pawpaws were extremely rare. “You have to get here early,” Jeff Rowe of Orchard Hill Organics, the market’s lone pawpaw vendor, told me. By the time I arrived at Brooklyn’s Park Slope farmers’ market in search of a pawpaw one morning last week, it was already too late: The weird green fruit had sold out within an hour.
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